Recommended Gear for 8000 m Expeditions
Pack & Bag Examples
  • 2 DUFFEL BAG(S): A 120+ liter bag made of tough material with rugged zippers.
North Face Base Camp Duffel - 155 L
Mountain Hardwear Lightweight Expedition Duffel - Large
  • SMALL DUFFEL: Needed to store gear in Kathmandu
  • BACKPACK: A 50 - 55 liter pack is the recommended size for this climb. A separate summit pack is not needed.
Black Diamond Speed 55 Liter Pack
First Ascent Alchemist 40 Liter Pack
  • PACK COVER (OPTIONAL): Protects your pack from rain while on the trail.
 Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil
  • DAY PACK: A 25+ liter day pack to use as carry-on, while traveling or sightseeing.
First Ascent Alchemist 30
  • 2 SLEEPING BAGS: One bag rated to -0 F will remain at Base Camp. A second bag rated -20 F or lower will be used at the higher camps.
Marmot Col MemBrain -20 (M)
First Ascent Karakoram -30 (M)
Feathered Friends Plover -25 (W)
Sea to Summit eVent Compression Dry Sack
Sea to Summit Ultra Sill Compression Sack
  • SLEEPING PAD - INFLATABLE: A full-length inflatable pad
Therm-A-Rest Prolite Plus (M)
Therm-A-Rest Prolite Plus (W)
  • SLEEPING PAD: Full length inflatable or closed cell pad
Therm-A-Rest Prolite Plus (M)
Therm-A-Rest RidgeRest SoLite (M)
Therm-A-Rest Prolite Plus (W)
Technical Gear Examples
  • ICE AXE: The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm axe; and taller, use a 75 cm axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.
Black Diamond Raven Pro Ice Axe
Petzl Snowalker Ice Axe
Black Diamond Blizzard
  • CLIMBING HARNESS: We recommend a comfortable, adjustable alpine climbing harness. Removable, drop seat or adjustable leg loops are convenient for managing your clothing layers over the course of the climb and facilitate going to the bathroom.
Petzl Adjama (M)
Black Diamond Aspect (M)
Petzl Luna (W)
  • 1 TRIPLE-ACTION LOCKING CARABINER(S): Used for clipping into the climbing rope.
Petzl William Triact Lock
  • 2 SCREW-GATE LOCKING CARABINER(S): Used for clipping into anchors, etc.
Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate
Black Diamond Mini Pearbiner
  • 3 NON-LOCKING CARABINER(S): Used for pack ditch loop, etc.
Black Diamond Hotwire
Petzl Ange L
  • HELMET: A UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) or CE (European Committee for Standardization) certified climbing helmet. Bicycle or ski helmets are designed for a different type of impact and will not substitute as a climbing helmet.
Petzl Elios Helmet (M)
Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet (M)
Petzl Elia Helmet (W)
  • The 12-point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. We highly recommend anti-bot plates to prevent snow from balling up underfoot.
Black Diamond Serac
Grivel G12
  • AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVER: A digital transceiver is preferred; analog will work as well. If you rent a transceiver, one set of new batteries will be provided.
Backcountry Access Tracker D.T.S
  • TREKKING POLES: Lightweight and collapsible poles are preferred. Larger baskets work well with deep snow. Ski poles will also work.
Black Diamond Expedition
Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Cork
  • MECHANICAL ASCENDER: For traveling on fixed ropes. Most people prefer an ascender designed for their weak hand, leaving their strong hand free to hold their ice axe. For example, a right-handed person would use a left-handed ascender.
Petzl Ascension
  • RAPPEL DEVICE: An ATC rappel device, ensure that it can handle rope sizes 6 to 13 mm.
Black Diamond ATC Guide
Petzl Reverso 4
  • 60 cm sewn sling ("single-length runner").
Black Diamond Dynex Runners
  • 15 ' PERLON CORD: 6 mm cordelette in one continuous length
Mammut Accessory Cord
Head Examples
  • 2 WARM HATS: Wool or synthetic hats; one light and one heavy.
Mountain Hardwear AirShield MicroDome
Smartwool Cuffed Beanie
  • BUFF / NECK GAITER / BALACLAVA: One item for face protection is required. Our primary recommendation is the Buff. A neck gaiter or balaclava is also acceptable.
Original UV Buff
Smartwool Neck Gaiter
Smartwool Balaclava
  • GLACIER GLASSES: You will need protective sunglasses, either dark-lensed with side shields or full wrap-around frames. Almost all sunglasses block UV-A, UV-B and infrared rays adequately. Pay attention to the visible light transmission. The darkest lenses (glacier glasses) only allow approx. 6% visible light to get through, while lighter lenses (driving glasses) let in as much as 20+ %. A good rule of thumb is that if you can see the wearer’s pupils through the lenses, they are too light for sun protection at altitude.
Julbo MonteBianco (M)
Julbo Explorer (M)
Julbo Monterosa (W)
Julbo Whoops (W)
  • GOGGLES: Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. On windy days, climbers, especially contact lens wearers, may find photochromatic lenses the most versatile in a variety of light conditions.
Smith Cascade (M)
Julbo Revolution (M)
Smith I/OS (M)
Julbo Luna (W)
  • CONTACT LENSES/ EYEGLASSES: Spare prescription glasses if you wear contact lenses/eyeglasses.
  • 2 HEADLAMPS: Bring two headlamps for the Expedition. The second is for use around camp and to serve as a backup. Be sure to begin the program with fresh batteries.
Petzl Tikka XP
Black Diamond Storm
Hands Examples
Each glove layer is worn separately as conditions change during the climb.
  • LIGHT WEIGHT GLOVE: One pair of fleece, soft-shell or wind-stopper gloves.
Marmot Windstopper Glove
Black Diamond Arc Glove
First Ascent Leather Palm Mountain Glove
  • 1 - 2 MEDIUM WEIGHT GLOVE: Wind/water resistant, insulated mountain gloves
Marmot Randonnee Glove
First Ascent Guide Glove
First Ascent Stash Glove
  • HEAVY WEIGHT INSULATED GLOVE OR MITTEN: Wind/water resistant, insulated gloves or mittens. These also serve as emergency back-ups if you drop or lose a glove.
Black Diamond Guide Glove
Marmot Expedition Mitt
  • 2 WORK GLOVES: Medium weight insulated gloves for climbing and working around camp. These should be both durable and dexterous enough to allow you to perform activities like setting up or taking down tents while wearing them.
First Ascent Guide Glove
First Ascent Glove Lite
Upper Body Examples
We recommend a minimum of five upper body layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Two of these should be insulating layers, one light and one medium, that fit well together. Today there are many different layering systems to choose from, including fleece, soft-shell, down and synthetic options.
  • 2 - 3 LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top. Quarter zip styles will allow for better temperature regulation. We recommend light colors, which best reflect the intense sun on hot days.
Patagonia Capilene 3 Zip (M)
Neck Smartwool NTS Light 195 Zip Neck (M)
Patagonia Capilene 3 Zip Neck (W)
Smartwool NTS Light 195 Zip Neck (W)
First Ascent Hangfire Jacket (M)
Mountain Hardwear Micro Chill (M)
First Ascent Hangfire Hoodie (W)
Mountain Hardwear Micro Chill (W)
Arc'Teryx Gamma LT Hoody Marmot ROM Jacket (M)
Arc'Teryx Gamma LT Hoody (W)
Outdoor Research Enchainment Jacket (W)
  • RAIN JACKET (HARD SHELL): A jacket made of rain-proof material with an attached hood.  We recommend a thinner lightweight jacket rather than a heavier insulated jacket.
Arc'Teryx Beta LT Jacket (M)
Arc'teryx Alpha SL Jacket  (M)
North Face Leonidas Jacket (W)
Arc'teryx Alpha SL Jacket (W)
  • DOWN PARKA WITH ATTACHED HOOD: This item becomes of highest importance when we are faced with poor weather. This should be an expedition-style parka. The parka is worn primarily in camp, at rest breaks, and on summit day (when it is of crucial importance). When sizing a parka, allow for several layers to be worn underneath; buy it large. The parka must have an insulated hood.
First Ascent Peak XV Down Jacket (M)
Mountain Hardwear Nilas Jacket(M)
First Ascent Peak XV Down Jacket (W)
Mountain Hardwear Nilas Jacket (W)
  • 3 - 4 HIKING SHIRT: Lightweight, synthetic shirt with either long or short sleeves. The long sleeve is preferred for sun/bug protection.
Patagonia Tropic Comfort Hoody II (M)
Mountain Hardwear Wicked Lite Long Sleeve (M)
Mountain Hardwear Butter Hooded Topper™ (W)
Mountain Hardwear Wicked Lite Long Sleeve (W)
  • DOWN SUIT: An 8,000 meter down suit.
First Ascent Peak XV Down Suit
  • SPORTS BRA: We recommend a moisture-wicking, active-wear bra.
Patagonia Active Mesh Bra
Lower Body Examples
We recommend a system of four layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Products which combine several layers into one garment, such as traditional ski pants, don’t work well as they don’t offer the versatility of a layering system.
  • 4 - 8 PAIR UNDERWEAR: Non-cotton briefs or boxers.
Smartwool NTS Micro 150 Boxer Brief (M)
Patagonia Lightweight Boxer Brief (M)
Patagonia Active Boy Short (W)
Smartwool PhD Seamless Boy Short (W)
  • 2 - 3 PAIR LIGHT TO MEDIUM WEIGHT BASELAYER: Synthetic or wool.
Patagonia Capilene 3 Bottoms (M)
Smartwool NTS Light 195 Bottoms (M)
Patagonia Capilene 3 Bottoms (W)
Smartwool NTS Light 195 Bottoms (W)
  • CLIMBING PANT: Soft-shell climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility. You can wear them in combination with the base layer on colder days, or alone on warmer days.
First Ascent Mountain Guide Lite Pant (M)
Arc'Teryx Gamma AR Pant (M)
First Ascent Mountain Guide Lite Pant (W)
Outdoor Research Cirque Pant (W)
  • RAIN PANT (HARD SHELL): A waterproof pant with 3/4 side zippers (sometimes called 7/8 or full side zips) are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons.
First Ascent Rainier Storm Shell Pant (W)
Arc'teryx Alpha SL Pant Arc'teryx Beta AR Pant (W)
First Ascent Rainier Storm Shell Pant (W)
  • DOWN OR SYNTHETIC INSULATED PANT (OPTIONAL): A synthetic primaloft pant.
Mountain Hardwear Compressor Pant (M)
First Ascent Igniter Pant (M)
First Ascent Igniter Pant (W)
  • LIGHT WEIGHT TREKKING PANT: A lightweight, synthetic pair of pants is a good option for the approach trek when hiking at lower altitudes and in warm conditions. These pants have no insulation, are typically made of thin nylon, and commonly feature zippers to convert between pants and shorts.
Mountain Hardwear Mesa (M)
V2 Convertible Pant (M)
Mountain Hardwear Ramesa (W)
V2 Convertible Pant (W)
  • CASUAL CAMP PANT: A pair of jeans or cotton pants. Great for wearing around camp or teahouses.
Feet Examples
  • MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: The function of footwear is of crucial importance. Select a brand's "top of the line" model and it should be sufficient. The boot needs to be roomy enough to allow for good circulation. Anticipate a sock combination when sizing them (single sock, liner and sock, or two heavy socks on each foot). Wear the boots as often as possible before the climb, to determine proper fit, comfort and performance.
La Sportiva Olympus Mons  
Millet Everest (all-in-one boot / gaiter)
  • OVERBOOTS: These are not necessary with all-in-one boot / gaiter models. Expedition overboots add significant warmth, especially at high altitude and need to be compatible with the style of crampons used.
Forty Below Purple Haze  
Forty Below K2 Superlight
  • HIKING BOOTS: A pair of lightweight boots for approaches and hiking on rugged terrain.
Asolo Fugitive GTX (M)
Asolo Stynger GTX (M)
  • 4 - 8 PAIR SOCKS: Either wool or synthetic. Whatever sock combination you are accustomed to wearing during your training or previous adventures (whether single medium weight socks, a medium weight with a liner sock, two medium weight socks together, etc), should work just fine for this climb.
Smartwool PhD Outdoor Light Crew Sock  (M)
Smartwool PhD Outdoor Heavy Crew Sock  (M)
 Smartwool Hiking Liner (M)
Smartwool PhD Outdoor Light Crew Sock (W)
  • GAITERS: A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots, will be needed for protection from snow, mud, and catching your crampons on loose clothing. These are not necessary with all-in-one boot / gaiter models.
Outdoor Research Expedition Crocodiles
Miscellaneous Items Examples
  • LIP BALM: We recommend SPF 15 or higher
Alba Un-Petroleum Lip Balm
  • SUNSCREEN: We recommend small tubes of SPF 15 or higher, which can be carried in pockets for easy access and to prevent freezing.
Doc Martin's Sunscreen
Grabber Hand Warmer
  • 2 WATER BOTTLES: Hard-sided, screw-top, one-liter water bottles with wide mouths are required.
  • 2 INSULATED WATER BOTTLE COVERS: These help prevent freezing. It should completely cover the bottle.
Outdoor Research Water Bottle Parka  
Forty Below Bottle Boot
  • AQUAMIRA: Chlorine Dioxide water purification drops.
  • 5 GARBAGE BAGS (LARGE): We recommend lining your backpack with garbage bags to keep items in your backpack completely dry.
  • 2 SETS ALKALINE BATTERIES: For avalanche transceiver.
  • LUGGAGE LOCKS: For your duffel bags. Must be TSA approved.
Sea to Summit Ultra Sil Dry Sack
  • THERMOS: High quality, lightweight, unbreakable 1/2 to 1 quart.
  • GSI Glacier Stainless Vacuum Bottle
  •  WATCH with alarm and light: Altimeter models are popular.
Suunto Vector  
Suunto Core
Travel Clothes
  • SHIRTS: For hotel dinners and while traveling.
Toilet Articles
  • HAND SANITIZER(S): Personal size (2 oz.) bottle.  
  • PEE BOTTLE: 1 to 1 1/2 quart size
Personal First Aid Kit
  • BLISTER TREATMENT   Dr. Scholl's Blister Cushions and Moleskin   Spenco 2nd Skin
  • Personal Medications
  • ANTIBIOTICS: Broad spectrum antibiotics for Traveler's Diarrhea.
  • ANTIBIOTICS: Antibiotics for upper respiratory infection.
  • TYLENOL #3: Tylenol 3 for pain
  • ACETAZOLAMIDE: For Altitude Illness
Utensils Examples
  • BOWL
GSI Infinity Bowl  
Sea to Summit X Bowl
GSI Fairshare Mug  
Whittaker Mountaineering 12 oz. Mug
  • 2 SPOON or SPORK
MSR Folding Spork  
Light My Fire Spork
Petzl Spatha Knife
Optional Items
  • PERSONAL SOLAR CHARGER: A small solar panel is a great way to charge your iPod or camera.
  • PASSPORT: Valid for six months beyond your return date.
  • COPY OF PASSPORT: The first two pages of your passport.



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